Monday, June 29, 2009

I don't know the rpm you rev...

Third running event. Startup took a little effort, but it's been about a week since last startup. Some time with the fuel pump and pedal pumping helped out. Started it up, and let it run up to temp. Some observations:
  • The idle continues to climb at idle - starts at 1.5k and climbs north of 3k rpm. I don't know what this means.
  • We have oil pressure. ~20psi or so?
  • The heater blows hot air. Well, maybe not "hot", but I feel a temperature difference swinging the lever from "hot" to "cold".
  • Radiator is def getting some hot coolant flow. I actually noticed some smoking toward the front of the car. Probably some stuff burning off.
  • Still a little smoky beneath the exhaust valve covers.
  • From the overwhelming smell of Sex Panther in the garage, I would estimate that we are running "pig rich", as the kids say these days.
  • We have no brakes. When running, the brake pedal goes straight to the floor. There is "fluid" in the reservoirs. Also, I didn't realize this contraption had 3 brake fluid reservoirs.
So, comment away. All ideas are appreciated.

I feel bad not posting a pic, so be jealous of THIS (Sarah rules):

10 comments:

  1. Wow thats pretty neat. Is that on a Jacket or a pair of coveralls?

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  2. Coveralls - onesy.

    Oh, I just realized that 3rd reservoir is probably for the clutch. Maybe.

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  3. Do you have a picture of the boot / picture under the engine-less hood?

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  4. I'm pretty sure we've got one in one of the albums - if not, I'll try to take one and post it up. It basically looks like a big, carpeted basin.

    And depending on the color of the car, there might be a mouse house in there.

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  5. Awesome coveralls. I am wholly jealous.

    The 'third' brake reservoir is actually the clutch. The brake ones are the two which are paired together on the passenger-side (IIRC). One for the front circuit and one for the rear.

    If the pedal hits the floor and there's no geyser of fluid, the master cylinder is dead. Not too surprising.

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  6. Good to hear we're getting solid circulation of the coolant both to the radiator and the heater core.

    I'm not sure what to say about the rising idle. Does a blip or two of the throttle settle it down? It should, once warm, drop down a bit in RPM, as the automatic choke should disengage (open). This MAY be why we're dumping raw Sex Panther into the air as well, as the engine should be rich when the choke is closed.

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  7. Blipping the throttle doesn't do anything to settle the throttle back down, it just returns to the elevated level.

    The exhaust definitely feels a little "wet".

    There's no progression of the brake pedal, it just goes straight to the floor, very little resistance. I think that could be indicative of air in the lines, too.

    You're right, the two paired on the pass side are the brake reservoirs, and the driver side singular one is the clutch. All call for DOT-3 fluid. Next time you're up we can bleed the things, or I can try and hunt down a power bleeder that will fit. I've been thinking of getting one for gdazzler anyway, but I think it has a larger cap.

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  8. I think a lot of the power bleeder things have multiple caps. I wouldn't want to take odds on one having a Lancia Scorpion adapter cap though. Maybe all the Europeans used a common size? Are we that lucky?

    If there's air in the coolant line up by the carb, that may be stopping the automatic choke from opening as I believe it is activated by the coolant temp. I'm not too sure how we'd go about bleeding the system at that point, though.

    As for the brakes, I'm doubtful that it would just be air in the lines. There's little reason for that to have occured, but plenty of cause for seals to have degraded enough to just blow-by. Anyhow, it looks like the MC is shared with the later X1/9s, so it's like $40. I say we order the MC and some new lines, etc, in case we need them. We'll need to bleed the rebuilt stuff though, so the power bleeder would still be handy.

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  9. You can also get one of the bleeder buddys, which has a magnet that you can attach a mini resivour above the brake and you just pump a few times and the bubbles should go to the top. I've had limited success with these. Another option would be to get a clean glass jar and run a small tube into the bottom and pump away. This will pump the bubbles into this resivour and then pull back in fresh un-bubbly fluid. A third option is to run a longer tube from the bleed screw all the way back into the resivour and then you can pump all you want with out fear of pumping it dry.

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  10. Yeah, I didn't have much success with the bleeder buddy thing. The jar and recycle thing is a good thought, but the fluid is so old in there it should probably be replaced with fresh. I have a might-vac too, which lets you suck air out of the bleeder valve, but I never get a perfect seal with the thing.

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